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A brace weeks ago, I begin myself bottomward a country alley in Chapel Hill, N.C., cat-and-mouse for cafeteria amidst the taxidermy and ice-cold jugs of candied tea at Allen & Son Bar-B-Que. Old smoke shacks sometimes don’t alive up to their legends. But my aboriginal aftertaste of this torchbearer of the East Carolina pit – its cautiously chopped hog dank with a ambrosial alkali aroma – was affiliated to award religion.

The moment my teeth sank into that pork, it was as admitting some exhilarant smoke was released, ascent and beaming through my arch like a candied and abatement song.

It’s a awareness I’ve accomplished on a few occasions afore – in Memphis, in Virginia, and in the backyard of a Texan friend, whose jury-rigged brisket smoker channels Austin. But about never in a Philadelphia restaurant. Never, that is, until the aperture of Fette Sau (German for “Fat Pig”), a annex of Joe Carroll’s Brooklyn academy alien to Fishtown by Stephen Starr.

The arrangement of coal-black-crusted meats bright in Fette Sau’s bottle case like treasures from a age-old cookfire do not arm-twist the acclaimed Southern traditions so abundant as the indie appearance of Brooklyn, what with their all-natural pedigrees (Berkshire and Duroc pork, Firebird amoebic chicken), chance cuts (pastrami-spiced beef tongue, pork belly) and rub alloyed

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