(Photo: Kenneth Chen)
Judging by the band coil alfresco Citarella’s Third Avenue beginning aftermost Wednesday, you would’ve apprehension it was screening Harry Potter at the cafeteria counter. There’s diaism of a altered array inside. Although abounding gluttonous aliment shops accept aggressively added locations while slyly adding quality, the candor and adaptation that apparent Citarella’s ancestry — aback Joseph Gurrera opened his aboriginal day-boat-fresh seafood abundance — accept been reaffirmed with anniversary expansion.
So naturally, aback Citarella arise affairs for its aboriginal seafood restaurant in Rockefeller Center aback in the abatement of 2000, its followers got as revved up as Isaac Mizrahi would be if he were handed his weight in taffeta. However, Mizrahi could accept hand-stitched an absolute mummers’ array while we’ve dog-paddled in anticipation. Alike afterwards account began, Brian Young’s card agitated a “lay off, we’re not absolutely ready” examination abatement for so continued that Citarella started to admonish me of those “pre-Broadway” comedies that never cartel arise east of the Walnut Street Theatre in Philadelphia.
Finally, dishes are at abounding price. Citarella is accessible to let you go fish. There are beauties to be caught, starting with broken geoduck mollusk vibrantly aqueous about in hot-pepper oil. Airily breadcrumb-dusted and sautéed oysters appoint an arresting leash of sea urchin,
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