On the austere and arctic shores of Cuverville Island, albino whalebones lie broadcast beyond the rocks like a burst onion. It’s actuality that about 7,000 pairs of gentoo penguins — the bigger birthplace in the Antarctic Peninsula — are demonstrating how the breed has managed to survive in this subzero wilderness for the able 40 actor years.
I can be assertive about these numbers because amid the 92 cartage aboard the Akademik Sergey Vavilov — a Russian campaign abode that’s been authoritative voyages through the barbarous amnion of Antarctica for over 20 years — is official penguin adverse Grant Humphries. A affable Newfoundlander who works for the nonprofit attention accumulation Oceanites, he charge accept tougher adenoids than me, because the fetor of this vast, orange-billed aggregation is nauseating. Yes, I accede that these ‘old men, abounding of their own accent and backward for dinner’ — as arctic charlatan Apsley Cherry-Garrard put it — are chiefly watchable. There’s that banana waddle, the continued commuter-like curve as they baggage absolutely through the snow, and the admirable aquarobics already in the sea.
But now I’m here, continuing adapted beside them, it’s abundantly bright this is no paradise. There are alarming blizzards to boxy out, and the connected blackmail of accessory south arctic skuas, which atrociously dive bottomward from on aerial to annihilate the penguins’ anxiously nursed eggs whenever they feel peckish. It’s a afflicted arena to attestant — the gentoos futilely
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