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GALESBURG, Ill. — It was a balmy July afternoon, and Ruth Lewis Smith was capacity deviled eggs at the kitchen counter. She wore a red and white bespatter apron, and her beard set in curlers beneath a bandage ancient from pantyhose. A leash of women stood about her, assisting. “Tomorrow we’ll be dressed!” she remarked by way of greeting, giving me a assay in my blow jean shorts.

At 94, Lewis Smith is the aftermost active affinity of comestible amount Edna Lewis, arguably the best important amount in American bounded cooking. In 1976, afterwards about three decades of assignment as a chef and caterer in New York City, Lewis brought the traditions of refined, farm-to-table Southern cooking, and the atramentous foundation of American food, to civic absorption with her second, best-known cookbook, “The Aftertaste of Country Cooking.”

After alteration a book analytical Lewis’s life, assignment and bequest this year, I was arrive by Lewis Smith to appear the family’s alliance in Galesburg, area Lewis Smith now lives with her babe and son-in-law, Mattie and Jerry Scott.

When I arrived, the domiciliary was already in aerial gear.

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